finding a suitable core for coil among sealants
The next step for our coil evolution - making them heftier and more resilient to studio and composing wear and tear. Without losing the linear drawing in space feel, we also want to make them more sculptural.
Bathroom/window sealant became our medium for cores. We tried several. The one we went with cured the fastest, retained a nice rubbery feel and was the strongest when tugged on.
the perfect sealant other than being a bit pricey
We tried 3 sealants - latex, non-silicon and silicon.
The latex bead at its fattest never really felt fully cured and stayed squishy soft. It seemed weak when tugged on.
The silicon didn’t offer any manipulation while still uncured. Just a recalcitrant stickiness. It also doesn’t feel very strong in its cured floppy ropey state. Afterall, it is designed to stick and fill a rigid surface.
The DAP Ultra Clear non-silicon worked best for a couple of reasons. We could more easily squeeze out a wonky, fat then thin bead. It’s somewhat workable when “wet.” It felt the strongest of the 3 when ready to wrap with abaca.
It also cured the quickest - about a week. After several days, we could remove it from its backing sheet. It felt strong enough to support its own weight, so we hung it up to finish curing more quickly. We wore nitrile gloves when handling it even after it seemed well cured and not tacky. We also kept the studio well ventilated.
Wrapping the core with abaca
The next sealant core coil has a fork in it. We thought to mummy wrap it, but it was problematic. Even with a lot of overlap, it tended to hinge along the spiraling seam. We re-enforced several places, but the problem still remained elsewhere. Next time, we’ll go back to the longitudinal wrap and use it in several overlapping sections.
LandesSullivan at gmail.com